From Lounge Lockouts to Layover Chaos: Lufthansa 787-9 Business Class LIS–FRA–DTW
A Lisbon–Frankfurt–Detroit return report: easy VAT refund, a brutal FRA EES bottleneck, and a redeeming Lufthansa 787-9 business class flight.
From Lounge Lockouts to Layover Chaos: Lufthansa 787-9 Business Class LIS–FRA–DTW
For my return journey from Portugal, I flew Lufthansa from Lisbon (LIS) to Detroit (DTW) via Frankfurt (FRA). Upgrading to Business Class for the transatlantic leg was a massive relief after the economy outbound flight, though Europe's transit systems managed to deliver one final roadblock.
1. Lisbon Airport (LIS): Seamless VAT Refund & Early Morning Limitations The VAT refund process at LIS was pleasantly surprising. The automated electronic kiosks were incredibly simple, efficient, and completely automated, with virtually no lines. However, a word of advice for early departures: LIS has no Lufthansa lounges or contract facilities open before 6:00 AM. If you have an early flight, prepare to wait in the regular terminal area.
2. Frankfurt (FRA) Transit: The Nightmare of the EES Equalizer I had fully intended to experience Lufthansa’s lounge during my 2.5-hour layover—a duration that should have been more than generous. However, moving toward the Z gates, I ran straight into a massive bottleneck caused by the new EES (Entry/Exit System) processing.
To make matters worse, there was absolutely no priority lane for First or Business Class passengers. All non-EU passport holders were forced into a single, agonizingly slow queue. It took well over an hour to clear, and by the time I finally breached the gate area, the flight was already boarding. The lounge visit was completely wiped out.
3. Onboard Comfort: Redeeming the Trip on the 787-9 (FRA-DTW) Fortunately, the onboard experience saved the day. The Boeing 787-9 felt fresh, and the Business Class seats were modern, spacious, and comfortable. The flight attendants were exceptionally warm and attentive, welcoming us with pre-departure drinks and dried fruits/nuts.
The catering was equally impressive. I ordered the veal and asparagus for the main course, which was beautifully prepared, followed by a fantastic mousse for dessert. Being able to lie flat and get quality rest made the transatlantic crossing effortless.
4. Smooth Arrival: Detroit (DTW) & Global Entry Efficiency Despite the EES delays in Germany, a 2.5-hour connection meant our checked baggage made the flight successfully.
When we touched down at DTW, the customs hall was practically empty. Using the Global Entry app made the process instant—the officer didn't ask a single question other than a quick "Anything to declare?" before waving me through. The only minor critique was the baggage claim: the bags took just over 20 minutes to arrive, but Lufthansa completely ignored priority baggage tags. It was just a random scramble of all luggage at once. Still, given that the bags made the tight connection, I'll take it as a win!
